2005 Jaguar XJ8 Radio Installation

Many Thanks to Lorenzo for providing this write-up…


As promised, here are the installation procedures for installing a radio in a 2005 Jaguar XJ8. FACTORY AMP STILL WORKS!!! Fiber optics is only for navigation/telephone operations. The steering wheel radio functions won’t still work but I didn’t care because I have a remote with my radio and I really don’t miss them. You can buy a steering wheel control adapter for yours if you like. I also installed a USB port adapter in front of the dash cigarette lighter as mines was starting to go out anyway and I connected it to the radio. It also still charges my phone and any other devices using a USB port. I also bought a radio bypass for being my passenger to be able to watch DVD’s (music or movies) while driving.

For my radio I chose the Pioneer AVH-X4800BS for my radio and love it.


  1. S-Type Dash kit (Metra 99-9501B)
  2. S-Type antennae adapter (Metra 40-EU10)
  3. S-Type Wire Harness (Metra 70-9500) *Note: It has 2 blacks for ground. You will be using the bottom left black for radio ground*

    I bought a kit with all 3 for $40 on eBay, here is the link for mines: http://www.ebay.com/itm/361524709248?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

  1. Foam hardboard (can be picked up from Wal-Mart or a place like hobby lobby)
  2. 200 grit sandpaper
  3. 300 grit sandpaper
  4. Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty (small tube from Wal-Mart, Autozone, or Oreilly’s)
  5. Tape
  6. Cardboard
  7. Wire cutter/stripper
  8. Wire crimper or pliers
  9. Superglue (I used gorilla superglue)
  10. Razorblade or exacto knife(this would probably be better)
  11. Plastic adhesion primer
  12. Glossy black automotive grade paint (don’t use cheap glossy black paint, IT WILL NOT BE CLOSE TO THE GLOSS OF THE PLASTIC A/C CONTROL UNIT!!!)
  13. Closed end connectors or butt connectors (I used closed end connectors)

Optional Materials:

  1. Clarion CCAUSB ($10 on Bonanza.com)
  2. Step drill bit going up to ¾”
  3. Permatex waterpump and thermostat housing silicone (small tube from Wal-Mart, Autozone, or Oreilly’s)
  4. Radio Bypass http://www.ebay.com/itm/331704431260?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

After removing the radio and A/C control unit, it would be best to take it into the house or on a bench to work with it. I unscrewed the radio from the metal brackets and used small screws and washers I had laying around the house for the small screw holes on the sides to screw the black metal brackets to the dashkit for added strength.

I started with wiring to make sure it would work. No use in the other steps if I can’t get the radio to work). I guess you could do the dash kit and take it somewhere to do the wiring if you can’t get it to work. The dash kit is the most expensive part anyway.

This part is pretty straight forward. Just make sure you use the lower left black for ground as mentioned above and the orange wire from the car radio harness goes to the orange/white wire to the radio harness. If you choose to get the bypass, it’s straight forward also.


To run the Bluetooth mic I took undid the 2 fasteners holding the lower driver side dash cover and routed the wire into the radio compartment. I then tucked the wire into the weather strip on that side and placed the mic on the sun visor.



On the S-Type dash kit I can’t remember which 2 tabs I cut but I think it was the back ones.

Take the cardboard and make a template to match the difference of the sides of the dash kit and the factory radio. Tape the cardboard to the ends of the dash kit then take it outside and temporarily install the center console to make sure it fits. You want it a little smaller (I should have done this, mines started cracking a little bit and I had to pull it back out and add a little more putty smh) than what you need because once you cut the foam board and use the putty it will be a little bigger. If you like the way one side fits better than the other you can use that cardboard side for both sides. You will only have to flip it for the other side.



After you have it fitting like you want it, trace it on the foam board and cut it out with the razor or the exacto-knife. Use the super glue so it adheres to the ends of the dash kit. I then painted the kit (along with the radio bezel) with the plastic primer adhesion paint and let it dry. I used white so the paint will be brighter and match to the glossy a/c controls better. This is where the putty comes in. You can use it to smooth out the middle of dashkit and the foamboard so it looks like one piece instead of 3 different pieces. After you have built up the putty and it has dried take the 200 grit sandpaper to knock off the extra putty. Use the 300 grit to smooth it out. It took me about 30 mins to knock the putty down enough so it seems like a smooth transition from the putty to the dashkit. On the pic below you see the difference in the side I started on (left) and the side I hadn’t touched yet.


Then I resprayed it with the primer so everything would match. After it dried I painted it with the automotive grade glossy black paint (bezel also).

To install the USB port, you have to remove the ashtray and cigarette lighter unit. Make sure you place it in the right place as there are electrical connectors under the unit. You will see them once you remove the unit. Find the location you want and use the step drill for the hole. *NOTE: when installing the radio back into the dash you have to have the wire going towards the right so it will fit correctly.* The USB placement is in the pic above showing the wiring.

Installation of the radio/a/c unit is pretty straight forward. It does help to have helping hands because you will have to push the radio back a little bit so the small holes on the dashkit lines up with the black metal pieces.

NOW FOR THE MONEY SHOT!!! I should have sanded it better than I did, but I’m ok with the outcome. You can also see a little cracking on the lower left that I had to take it back out and do over as mentioned above SMH.